
You know that moment when you finish a piece… hold it up to the light… and instead of feeling smug as hell, you think, “Huh. That’s… nice?”
Not bad. Not wrong. Just… a bit meh.
There’s a moment most jewelers hit where everything they make feels… a little too clean. You know, a bit too shiny, a bit too same-y. A bit too “I’ve seen this exact ring in 47 different shops before.”
It’s like it’s lacking character. Have you ever felt this way? I know I have.
That’s usually when texture starts calling your name.
Here’s your fair warning though… once you fall down the texture rabbit hole, there’s no coming back. You start seeing possibilities everywhere. Every hammer mark, every scratch, every “oops” suddenly looks like potential instead of a mistake.
You see, I am crazy about texture, and not just because it’s so much fun (although… it is ridiculously fun), but because it’s the fastest way to make your pieces stand out from the big box store boringness.
You can take something that might look generic on its own… and make it recognizably yours! A plain polished silver ring? It has a ceiling. There’s only so much personality it can carry.
But a beautifully textured ring band… something with depth, movement, a bit of attitude? You end up creating little works of art.
And that’s where things get interesting. That’s where people stop and actually look. And yep… that’s also where the value goes up.
But here’s the thing most people don’t realize yet… and this is where it gets good:
You don’t need a drawer full of a million fancy tools to create beautiful, unique textures.
You just need a few good ones…and the willingness to get a bit curious and ask the question…
👉 “What if?”
What if I use my hammer on the side of a ring band instead of the outside?
What if I graduated my hammer blows?
What if I stop trying to be neat?
What if I apply texture while following a pattern?
Asking those questions is where the magic happens.

So if your pieces have been feeling a bit same-y lately… this is your nudge.
Let’s walk through some of my favorite tools for adding texture… and more importantly, how to actually use them in a way that creates depth, character, and pieces that don’t look like they rolled off a production line.
(No need to remortgage the house to buy your entire tool supplier’s inventory… promise).

If you only had one category of tools for adding texture to jewelry… hammers would be the winner by a country mile.
Hammers are simple, versatile, and wildly underrated.
And despite there being a heck of a lot to choose from, you really do only need a few good ones if you’re willing to experiment a little.
In my experience, most of the magic comes from how you use the hammer, not from owning 37 different versions that all cost the same as a small family holiday.
But before we get carried away, here’s one quick tip.
👉 You need a steel bench block (or mandrel) underneath your metal.
No block = no crisp texture. Just sad, mushy dents and a damaged workbench that looks like it lost a bar fight.
And here’s the part beginners love: You do not need expensive versions of all these hammers. A cheap hardware store hammer can give you an amazing finish with just a little sanding and polishing of the faces.
Or… don’t polish it at all and lean into a rough, industrial texture.

Think about how you can use hammers creatively. This one is using a simple riveting hammer to create a ruffled edge.

Even standard hammer texture doesn’t have to be basic. Try graduating the weight of the blows or using different sized hammers.

If hammers are expressive… punches are controlled.
Because unlike hammers, where no matter how accurate you are, you can’t get the blows exactly where you want them, punches (used together with a chasing hammer) give you much more control over exactly where you want those marks to be, and create texture in a way that feels a bit more intentional.
Which is handy when you’re trying to look like you absolutely meant to do that.
You can think of punches in three main groups:
And then there’s my favorite category:
“Anything you can hit with a hammer becomes a punch.”
And this is where texture gets really fun, because you stop looking at tools the way manufacturers intended… and start looking at them through an entirely different lens.
What if your best texture tool is already in your toolbox… or your junk drawer?

Beading tools cost less than a dollar each, but even this simple tool, when used in different ways can create some amazing results.

These are one of my absolute favorite texture tools.
Technically they’re made for stone setting… but secretly, they’re amazing for textures.
And whilst you can’t get as much force with these as you can with a hammer and punch, what you lose in brute force, you gain in:
And once you start playing with one, it’s very hard to go back.
You can buy ready-made anvils just for texturing, like the Pave Point tool with its tiny diamond-shaped tip (one of my firm favorites).
Or… and this is where things get interesting… you can modify standard anvils yourself to create completely custom textures.

The great thing about modifying anvils is that you can use them for creating textured settings too.

With all forms of textures though - direction is key. Try following a pattern with your hammer handpiece blows.

This is where things get really fun and where texture starts becoming a full-blown obsession.
Because yes, you can use proper texture plates in a rolling mill. They’re fantastic for creating repeatable, professional-looking textures.
But honestly? They’re just the gateway drug.
Once you realize how many random materials can create beautiful textures in a rolling mill, it becomes very hard to look at everyday objects normally ever again.
Here are some of the things I love to use to create unique textures with a rolling mill:
Basically anything that can safely go through the mill and isn’t too soft can work to add texture.
And this is where people really start developing their own style, because rolling mill textures can feel incredibly organic and unpredictable compared to hammer textures. You’re not just making marks anymore… you’re capturing patterns, fibers, wrinkles, layers, and little details you’d never create by hand.
Now, rolling mills do come with a few “please don’t learn this the hard way” rules that are slightly beyond the scope of a casual little blog post… but here are some big ones to know first:
Hold your horses on that last one especially. Water and rolling mills are not friends. Rust on your rollers is a spectacularly bad time, and not in the fun “creative experimentation” way.
But honestly? The real magic with rolling mill textures isn’t the individual materials.
It’s the layering.
A layer of sandpaper underneath a piece of metal mesh. A fabric imprint combined with oxidization. Soft organic patterns mixed with crisp geometric marks.
That’s when pieces stop looking like “texture samples”… and start looking like jewelry with real personality.
There’s so much more to offer when it comes to rolling mills than just texture plates. Try layering multiple textures for even more creativity.


If you want quick coverage, without spending six business days individually hammering tiny marks into metal… texture wheels are hard to beat. In fact, I feel they’re weirdly underrated.
You can get larger ones for a polishing motor, or smaller versions for your flex shaft too. Either way they are available in a variety of coarsenesses from fine for a subtle finish, to coarse which gives you a distinctly dimpled effect.
Honestly… they’re one of the easiest ways to make a piece look more finished and professional without a huge amount of effort.
But here’s the thing most people do wrong…
They use way too much pressure.
You’ll get a much more even finish with just a light touch.
And the best part - because it's so subtle, this texture works well with almost everything.

My favorite is the green medium grit wheel.

Satin wheels are a much softer, subtler kind of texture and are considered your “quiet” texture.
Under a microscope? They’re basically creating tiny parallel lines across the surface of the metal. But in real life? You get a soft, directional sheen that looks silky and rather fancy.
And this is where direction starts to matter a lot more than people realize.
These are perfect when you don’t want texture to steal the show… just support it.

If you mask off certain areas - you can get some awesome two-tone results with polished areas contrasting soft satin finished areas.

Burs are wildly underrated for texture.
Most people think of them purely as stone setting tools… and yes, technically that’s their main job. But they’re also a brilliant playground for:
And the good news? You really don’t need an entire drawer full of them to get started.
In fact, just three or four burs will give you a tonne of options.
Here’s what I’d buy:
And just… experiment.
And the best part about bur textures? Yes they’re fun, precise and wildly addictive. But you’re also building bur control at the same time - which you’ll need if you want to master more advanced stone setting techniques.
Plus, even if you’re making mistakes with burs - you can get some awesome results anyway.

This style is a great way to practice using a bur. This was done with a heart bur with zero control at all. I let that thing slip n’ slide all over the place and I love the bark-like texture I ended up with.

This style which was also made using a heart bur requires a little more focus and attention. So practice the rough and ready texture first of all and then give this one a go as your control grows.

Most people only use these for shaping, or cleaning up. But they’re also fantastic for adding textures too.
A simple square needle file used with a little precision can give some ridiculously cool patterns. And even a humble flat file can be good too.
But, if you are a fan of more fast and furious textures - you’re going to love Florentine or checkering files. There’s just so much you can do with these bad boys. You can go totally random, or work with the precision of a watchmaker to create some beautiful geometric designs.
Files can create:
And the really fun part… both extremes work beautifully.
Both can create amazing results.


And finally… we arrive at the textures for people who enjoy living ever so slightly on the edge.
Because heat-based textures are much less controlled and much less predictable.
This is where you let go… just a little.
Using heat, you can:
This is the kind of texture work where you have to loosen your grip on perfection a bit. You can guide the metal, but you can’t completely boss it around.
And personally… fusing has to be my favorite. It’s a great way to recycle silver filings - well the clean ones anyway.
Now, before you sprint off to point a torch at everything in your studio, there are a few important things worth knowing before you go down this rabbit hole.
And the goal?
👉 Ride that line just before melting.
(It’s easier than it sounds… and just a word of warning - it will likely become slightly addictive.)
If you have a pulse arc welder, you can also get really creative with mixed metals too! This ring is made with fusing fine silver dust and roughly welding a gold wire to the edge to create a molten looking border.


Okay… this isn’t technically a texturing tool.
But it might be the thing that finally makes your textures actually shine.
Because here’s the truth that a lot of jewelers don’t realize:
👉 Texture without contrast can sometimes fall completely flat.
You can spend all that time hammering, filing, rolling, experimenting like a mad scientist at the bench… and then look at your finished piece and think:
“Why does this still look a bit… meh?”
And that is where liver of sulfur can help.
This magical little potion darkens your metal. And when you remove the liver of sulfur from the surface of the metal after, you’re left with dark recesses which creates a beautiful contrast.
And your textures instantly become more visible.
So, what if your problem hasn’t been your texture after all… but simply that no one can properly see it yet?
If you’ve never used liver of sulfur before, it’s one of the fastest ways to elevate your work, especially as a beginner.
Want to learn how to use Liver of Sulfur to transform your jewelry?
👉 Download my Free Guide to Liver of Sulfur and learn how to safely darken and patina your metals for richer contrast, more visible textures, and jewelry with a whole lot more personality.

Nope. Absolutely not.
You could start with:
…and create hundreds of epic textures.
Because tools aren’t the thing holding people back.
👉 Thinking and curiosity is.
Or more specifically… the willingness to stop trying to do everything the “correct” way all the time.
Some of the best textures happen because someone got curious. They dragged a file the wrong direction. They hit something too hard. They tested a weird tool combination just to see what would happen.
And suddenly… boom. New texture unlocked.
Every technique, every texture, every surface you love…
Started with someone asking:
“What if I tried this?”
So before you go out and buy anything…
Try something weird. Try something messy. Try something “wrong.”
And just see what happens.
Because that’s usually where the best textures come from.
This blog post is really just scratching the surface of what’s possible with texture.
For the past few months I’ve been working hard on the biggest masterclass we’ve EVER made, with 4 hours worth of videos, 13 lessons, and stacks of game-changing bonus resources…
Aka. everything you could ever need to master textured finishes, all in one in-depth self-paced masterclass.
And now... it's officially LIVE 🎉
Inside Texture Mastery class, we go much deeper into all of this...
By the end, you’ll confidently be able to:
🤤 Create clean, controlled textures and add depth to ANY piece of jewelry
🔨 Use hammers, punches, burs, files and more to build a wide range of finishes
👌 Know which metals work best with which textures (and most importantly, why)
💡 Build your own go-to texture library (so you’re never stuck for ideas again)
💍 Finish textured pieces without losing detail or over-polishing
And soooo much more.
I’m SO proud of all the work we’ve poured into this masterclass. It took us months (and a helluva lot of coffee-fueled late nights) to put this together, and it was worth every bit of effort. This truly is a one-stop shop for texturing mastery and I can’t wait for you to get inside!
So, if you’ve been feeling a bit stuck lately... making the same kinds of pieces over and over again, playing it safe, polishing the life out of everything...
This class is going to blow that wide open.
And to celebrate the launch, we’ve currently got a pretty ridiculous introductory offer live right now that you’re not going to want to miss.
So if texture has been quietly calling your name throughout this whole blog post… this is your sign to fall head first down the rabbit hole. 😉
Join the Metalsmith academy today and you'll get unlimited access to the entire masterclass.

Inside our value-packed online membership, you’ll find all the skills, steps, and tools you need to start making high-quality jewelry from home. With 30+ online classes and 100+ resources, hands-on support from expert jewelers, and a friendly community of like-minded jewelers, you’ll be unstoppable at making your goals a reality. Whether you’re brand new to the game or a seasoned pro, you’ll find everything you need to get unstuck and level up your skills - all in one seamless, flexible, and fun online portal.
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Last Updated: 1 March 2021
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