In this article
In this article
Making a chain is a super handy way to work on those soldering skills and in this case, bur control skills too!
In this blog post, I want to take you through step by step, how to make this super stylish chunky textured chain. Not only will you nail those soldering skills with a project like this, but if you follow along exactly, you'll get to work on those bur control skills too.
What you're going to need
We're going to be working here to make an 18-inch chain, but of course if you want to do a longer chain, you're just going to have to do a little maths. Please note, the quantities below are more than enough - but it's always better to have a little extra, just in case. And of course, you don't have to do this in sterling silver. Brass or bronze will work well too. So, here's what you're going to need:
14 gauge (1.6mm) round profile sterling silver wire (dead soft) - 75cm (2.5ft
16 gauge (1.3mm) round profile sterling silver wire (dead soft) - 45cm (1.5ft)
17 gauge (1.15mm) round profile sterling silver wire (dead soft) - 60cm (2ft)
Hard and medium silver solder
Jump Rings
We're going to need quite a few of these!
I'm going to use my jump ring maker to make the jump rings here, but of course they can also be made pretty easily with just a steel rod to wrap your wire around. The key is to keep those coils looking as even as possible if you want an easy life later on.
If you're thinking to purchase a jump ring maker, I have personally used all three of the models below and am more than happy with all of them. If you are looking to save a buck though, the Coil Cutter from Potter USA offers the best value for money.
Making the 14 gauge (1.6mm) jump rings
First up, we're going to take our 14 gauge round wire and use a 10mm mandrel to make a coil of jump rings with an inside diameter of 10mm.
We're going to need a total of 16 of these jump rings for our 18 inch chain, but it's always a good idea to make a few extra. The amount needed will obviously also depend on how elongated you make the links, so just bear that in mind too.
Making the 16 gauge (1.3mm) jump rings
Next, we're going to use our 16 gauge wire and a 4mm mandrel to make another coil. I used a total of 17 jump rings for this project. But remember, the length of your chain will vary slightly from mine, so it's a really good idea to make a few more than might be necessary. You can always use them for another project.
Making the 17 gauge (1.15mm) jump rings
Finally, we're going to use a 3.5mm mandrel to make our 17 gauge (1.15mm) jump rings. Because we're using these to link both our 16 and 14 gauge links together, we're going need a lot more of these. I used a total of 34 jump rings for my 18 inch chain.
Cut through the jump rings
Once we have all our coils made up, it's time to get to cutting them to create individual jump rings. When cutting, ensure you're cutting directly through the jump rings and aiming for the center of the coil. Cut all the way through the jump rings with the blade and don't be tempted to pull the jump ring off the coil when you're almost through - doing that will leave a bur, and just mean you have to cut through the jump ring again later to get a perfectly closed join.
Opening and closing up the jump rings
When opening and closing jump rings, be super careful not to take bite marks out of them with your pliers. Before doing this, you may want to think about modifying your pliers to soften the edges as we show in this video here:
Solder the 14 and 16 gauge jump rings closed
It's so much easier to solder jump rings when they're not all linked to form a chain. So where possible, we want to solder as many of our jump rings closed before forming the chain. In this case, as our 17 gauge jump rings will be sitting in between each of our 14 and 16 gauge links, we can solder the 14 and 16 gauge links closed now.
We'll then use our 17 gauge links to join everything together later.
Cleaning up the jump rings
If you have any excess solder visible on your joins, a quick clean up now while the jump ring is still round, is the easiest time to clean them up. If there's quite a bit of excess solder, I'll use a sandpaper barrel followed by a fine / medium modified rubber wheel. But if the sandpaper isn't necessary, I'll skip that step.
If the solder seam is only slightly visible, I would leave it alone for this particular chain as we're going to be adding texture to the chain later which will disguise a well soldered join instantly.
Creating the textured jump rings
The feature links for this chain are going to be the large links created from 14 gauge round wire with a 10mm inside diameter. But before adding the texture, we're going to make them oval using our reverse action pliers. To learn more about this handy tool and how to modify them to avoid leaving gouges, check out the blog post below:
Making oval links
I like to have my jump ring resting in the first set of notches on the pliers so I can make my chain links as narrow as possible at the ends. But you can experiment here depending on the look you’re going for. In this instance, I'll make sure my solder join is located in between the two jaws of my pliers so it sits on one of the long edges of the link (this way we'll ensure we're covering it when we add a bur texture later on).
With the jump ring in place on the pliers, simply squeeze down on the handles to elongate the jump ring. As with all pliers that aren't parallel action, the force applied will not be even on both sides of the jump ring. So, simply rotate the jump ring and repeat the process.
Repeat this for the rest of your 14 gauge chain links.
It might take a little practice here to ensure you're applying the same amount of pressure for each link, but do take the time necessary to ensure your chain links end up the same length and width.
Adding texture and creating form with a ball peen hammer
To add a little interest to my chain links I'm going to flatten out the middle section along the length of the links and add a little hammer texture using my small ball peen hammer from Fretz Tools.
Carefully holding the link (as I don't particularly like whacking my fingers), I'm going start hammering at the center of the link and then gradually reduce the force of my hammer blows as I work toward the tightly curved ends of the link (which I will be leaving perfectly rounded). I'll repeat this for both edges of my link, and then flip the link over to do the same again on the other side.
Hammering the links from both sides will help ensure the links are formed evenly and don't curve along their side profile. If you've tried adding a hammer texture on both sides before, you'll realise it can be a little tricky. So as a last step, after hammering both sides, I'll flip the link over to the starting position again and just add a few more blows to help add in a bit of texture again without removing too much texture from the back side of the links. Remember, every action has a reaction!!!
And surprisingly enough - you're going to want to do that all over again for the rest of your oval links.
Take the time here though to make sure you're creating a gentle taper with your hammer blows. In practice, this means more blows with more pressure in the center of the link, and less blows with less pressure toward the curved edges of the link.
Adding texture with a cross cut Cylinder bur
Finally we're going to finish up our oval links by adding a little texture using a 1.3 - 1.4mm cylinder bur. As well as creating a unique texture, which is going to tie into the pendant I'll add to the chain later, this is a great exercise in bur control too! You know I love those bur control exercises right!?
Assembling the Chain
Aside from aesthetics, there is another reason I chose to have three links in between each oval link.
I am going to add a pendant to the center of the chain and it will be attached to one of the 14 gauge round links. If I had simply placed one round link between the two oval links, the pendant wouldn't have hung correctly around the neck. This way, the large oval links can sit flat against the neck with the pendant hanging from the 14 gauge round jump ring also laying perfectly flat against the neck. It's important to consider details like this before beginning any chain making project.
Anyway - here's the order we're going to assemble this:
So, now all we need to do is link the chain together and get everything soldered. I'm using two pairs of chain nose parallel pliers for this part (I find chain nose work a little easier than flat nose pliers for such tiny linking links).
As always, make sure you've fully closed up those jump rings and the edges are meeting perfectly! It's much easier to make this perfect now, than after they're soldered.
I'm going to solder these links with hard solder again, but feel free to use medium here if you prefer. Remember, keep the solder pallions tiny here. If we use just enough solder, no clean-up will be necessary - that's gotta be a pretty good motivating factor!
As we're dealing with pretty tiny links here, it's important to hold the link to be soldered as far away from the join as possible. To help ensure I'm not going to be accidentally melting any of my other links, I have my cross locking tweezers resting on top of a charcoal block with the rest of the chain kept well out of the way of my flame.
You can use any flux for this as it's a relatively quick and clean soldering operation, but I'm using Pripps style flux in a spray bottle from Pepe Tools.
I'll solder one link at a time here, quenching, but not pickling after each soldering operation. The rest of the chain links shouldn't be getting oxidised as you solder each link, so there is no need to pickle in between.
I'm soldering, as always, using a solder pick and using my Smith Little Torch with a number 7 tip. My flame is small but not tiny (approximately 6-7cm in total length).
Please pay attention to the angle of my flame here. It's going across the link, and not pointing down toward the rest of the chain (if it was, there wouldn't be any chain left, it would be a melty mess)!
Finishing up the chain
Another way to make oval jump rings
Well, after soldering everything together, I decided that I didn't like my small jump rings being round, and my chain was about an inch shorter than I needed. So, a super simple solution to the length issue is to make the jump rings oval instead. But there's no way on earth my reverse action pliers were going to fit in there, so I thought this was an excellent opportunity to show you how you can also make oval links using a pair of parallel pliers.
Place the jump ring in between the jaws of the pliers, and gently squish it. Beyond simple. However, keep your fingers out of the way of the jaws of the pliers. If your jump ring slips, that hurts like...... (insert very painful moment here). To avoid slipping, ensure your jump ring is perfectly perpendicular to the inside jaws of the pliers and kind of hold it straight using the previous jump ring. And don't try this with anything but parallel pliers. Even then, I still slipped a couple of times!! Remember - do not put your fingers in the jaws of the pliers to hold the jump ring!!
After adding a clasp and a quick tumble with stainless steel shot, I'm pretty happy with the final result!
Do you like the pendant I made to go with it? I textured the bezel with the same cylinder bur as I used on the chain.
I'm still not sure though, maybe I'll add a shit-tonne of bezel set charms instead. After all, I really am a MORE IS MORE kind of gal!
Ready to unleash your inner jewelry maker and create stunning pieces from scratch?
Inside our value-packed online membership, you’ll find all the skills, steps, and tools you need to start making high-quality jewelry from home. With 30+ online classes and 100+ resources, hands-on support from expert jewelers, and a friendly community of like-minded jewelers, you’ll be unstoppable at making your goals a reality. Whether you’re brand new to the game or a seasoned pro, you’ll find everything you need to get unstuck and level up your skills - all in one seamless, flexible, and fun online portal.
Unlock your potential, progress faster, and actually enjoy your jewelry-making journey inside the Metalsmith Academy.
Share Post
Get free Unlimited Access to The Metalsmith Academy for 7 Days
*Cancel anytime, no lock-in contracts.
Unleash Your Creative Spark Today
Ready to take your jewelry-making skills to the next level? Join The Metalsmith Academy and start making pieces of jewelry you’re proud to show off. Don't let self-doubt hold you back - join The Metalsmith Academy today and begin your journey toward becoming a jewelry-making pro!
Join The Metalsmith Academy Now
*Cancel anytime, no lock-in contracts
Get Started for free With Our Jewelry-Making Tools Ebook
New to the metalsmithing malarkey and wondering what tools you really need to spend your hard-earned money on?! Where to splurge, and where to save (money, time and sanity?) Download our highly-popular eBook and start creating your jewelry-making obsession collection today!
Privacy Policy
Last Updated: 1 March 2021
Lucy Walker Jewelry PLT (“LWJ” and any reference to “we”, “us” or “our” shall mean LWJ) respects and is committed to the protection of your personal data and your privacy. This Personal Data Protection Notice (“Privacy Notice”) explains how LWJ collects and handles your personal data in accordance with the Personal Data Protection Act 2010 of Malaysia and other applicable privacy laws we are to adhere to. Please note that LWJ may amend this Privacy Notice at any time without prior notice and will notify you of any such amendment via our website or by such other means of communication as deemed suitable by LWJ.
1. Personal Data
1.1 Type of personal data
Personal data means any information which relates to you or in respect of a third party and which was collected or provided to LWJ for any of the purposes stated in Section 2 below (“Purposes”).
Your personal data may include, but is not limited to, your name, address, email address, contact information and IP address.
1.2 Source of personal data
LWJ collects your personal data whether directly from you or indirectly from third parties such as your third party representatives in connection with any submission, transaction, arrangements and/or enquiries made with LWJ including when you send us enquiries, register for an account on our website, purchase products or memberships from us, or join our online competitions and contests.
1.3 Obligatory personal data
All information requested for in the relevant forms and documents is obligatory to be provided by you unless stated otherwise.
Should you fail to provide the obligatory information, we may be unable to process your request and/or provide you with relevant services and products.
2. Purposes of collecting and further processing (including disclosing) your personal data
Your personal data is collected and further processed by LWJ as required or permitted by law and to give effect to your requested commercial transaction, including the following (Purposes):
(a) to assess and process your request for our products and services;
(b) to administer and give effect to your commercial transaction
(c) to facilitate your participation in, and our administration of, any events including contests, promotions or campaigns;
(d) to administer and communicate with you in relation to our products, services, promotions and/or events;
(e) to process any payments related to products and services requested by you;
(f) for internal investigations, compliance, audit or security purposes including without limitation for crime detection, prevention and prosecution;
(g) to conduct research for internal marketing analysis and analysis of customer patterns and choices;
(h) to better manage our business and your relationship with LWJ;
(i) to respond to your enquiries and to resolve any issues and disputes which may arise in connection with any dealings with LWJ;
(j) to comply with LWJ’s legal and regulatory obligations in the conduct of its business including to meet any disclosure requirements of any law binding upon LWJ;
(k) to contact you and/or provide you with information regarding products, services, upcoming events, promotions, advertising, marketing and commercial materials which may be of interest to you;
(l) to ensure that the content from our website is presented in the most effective manner for you and for your computer and/or device;
(m) for LWJ’s internal records management; or
(n) for any other purpose that is required or permitted by any laws, regulations, guidelines including the requirements of any governmental or regulatory authorities.
Where you have indicated your consent to receiving marketing or promotional updates from LWJ, you may opt-out from receiving such marketing or promotional material at any time. You may select the “unsubscribe” option provided in our email blasts or you may contact LWJ at the contact details provided in Section (6) below.
3. Disclosure or transfer of personal data (within or outside of Malaysia)
Classes of third parties
Your personal data may be disclosed or transferred to relevant third parties (within or outside of Malaysia) as required under law, pursuant to relevant contractual relationship (for example, our third party service providers) or for the Purposes (or directly related to Purposes).
Your personal data may be disclosed to the following classes of third parties:
Third parties appointed by us to provide services to us or on our behalf (such as banks or financial institutions, auditors, lawyers, company secretary, information technology (IT) system / software vendors, contractors, marketing consultants and other advisers);
Any financial institutions, merchants, credit card associations, or payment gateways in connection with your use of any credit or debit card in any transactions made with us;
Law enforcement agencies including courts, tribunals or authorities, whether governmental or quasi-governmental having jurisdiction over LWJ;
Relevant governmental agencies, statutory authorities, industry regulators and local councils; and
Any persons, authorities or regulators to whom LWJ is permitted or required to disclose to under the laws of any country.
4. Websites
4.1 Links to other sites
Content in any website run by LWJ (“LWJ Websites”) may include links to third party websites. LWJ is not responsible for the content on such linked third party websites and users should observe the separate privacy policies applicable to the respective third parties website.
4.2 Cookies
LWJ may collect information about your visits to the LWJ Websites without you actively submitting such information. Unidentifiable information may be collected using various technologies, such as cookies, and web beacons. Cookies are small text files that are transferred to your computer’s hard disk by a website. Web beacons (also referred to as GIF files, pixels or Internet tags) help LWJ recognise a unique cookie on your browser. Your internet browser automatically transmits to LWJ some of this unidentifiable information, such as the URL of the LWJ Website you just visited and the browser version your computer is operating.
Passive information collection technologies can make your use of the LWJ Websites easier by allowing LWJ to provide better service, customise the LWJ Websites based on consumer preferences, compile statistics, analyse trends, and otherwise administer and improve the LWJ Websites. Certain features of the LWJ Websites may not work without use of passive information collection technologies. Information collected by these technologies cannot be used to identify you without additional identifiable information and LWJ will not collect additional identifiable information with information collected through the use of such tracking technologies.
5. Right to access and correct personal data
You have the right to access and correct your personal data held by us (subject always to certain exceptions). We will make every endeavour to ensure your personal data is accurate and up to date therefore we ask that if there are changes to your information you should notify us directly at the contact details set out in Item (6) below
6. Limiting the processing of personal data, further enquiries and complaints
If:
you would like to obtain further information on how to limit the processing of your personal data;
you have any further query; or
you would like to make a complaint in respect of your personal data,
you may contact :-
Designation : Business Director
Email Address : shaun@lucywalkerjewellery.com
Download the Getting Started Soldering Guide now for FREE
Ready to overcome your flaming fears and master the #1 technique every metalsmith needs to create stunning jewelry? This outrageously comprehensive guide will give you the down-low on everything you need to know to start soldering with confidence!Ready to overcome your flaming fears and master the #1 technique every metalsmith needs to create stunning jewelry?
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download our Diamond Rendering Tutorial (PDF) now for FREE
Ready to learn the easier-than-you-think trick for rendering dazzling diamonds like a pro… even if drawing is soooo not your thing?! This handy PDF tutorial will be your sneaky shortcut to bring your diamond designs to life, without spending hours sketching.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download our $200 Jewelry-Making Tools List now for FREE
Ready to get the most bang for your buck and build your own beginner’s toolkit for less than $200? This 23-page guide will turn you into a smart and savvy jeweler, with all the tools you need to create elegant, high-quality, non-boring jewelry on a budget.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download our $200 Jewelry-Making Tools List now for FREE
Ready to get the most bang for your buck and start making your own jewelry for less than $200?
Just enter your details below and we’ll send the free guide directly to your inbox.
Turn a $4 Dud into a Texture Stud
In this fast and fun tutorial, you’ll learn how to transform a cheap-as-chips hammer into a seriously impressive texture tool - no fancy budget required.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send a link to watch directly to your inbox.
Love Playing With Fire? You’ll Love This.
In this free 20-minute video, you’ll learn how to turn metal dust into magic and master the art of wild, organic, melty textures - using nothing but a torch and a bit of control.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send a link to watch directly to your inbox.
Learn How to Make Starburst Bezels (In Under 15 Minutes)
Ready to add some serious sparkle to your settings with this ridiculously satisfying technique? It’s quick, it’s fun, and these textured bezels are way easier to make than they look.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send a link to watch directly to your inbox.
Unlock the Secrets to Gorgeous Hammer Textures
There’s a right way to whack metal - and this free 18-minute video shows you how. Say goodbye to messy textures and hello to finishes that actually look intentional (and professional).
Just enter your details below and we’ll send a link to watch directly to your inbox.
Struggling With Soldering? Start Here.
There’s a right way to whack metal - and this free 18-minute video shows you how. Say goodbye to messy textures and hello to finishes that actually look intentional (and professional).
Just enter your details below and we’ll send a link to watch directly to your inbox.
Download our FREE Jewelry-Making Tools eBook Now
Ready to build your must-have metalsmithing toolkit? Despite popular belief, you don't need all the tools to get started - or much at all! This eBook will take the guesswork out of your tool-buying and show you what you actually need (and what you can avoid wasting your coins on).
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download Our Beginners Guide to Bezel Setting now for FREE
Ready to learn all about bezel setting, so you can start putting your stash of gemstones to use? This guide is the perfect place to start.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download Our FREE Guide to Working With Gemstones now
Ready to officially become a Gemstone Guru and discover what you really need to know about choosing and using stones in your jewelry? This 31-page guide will help you select the right gemstones for your projects, and help you avoid buying gems that will cause you drama later on.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download Our “Gemmy Christmas” Saw Pierced Template Pack Now for FREE
Ready to deck the halls with your own handmade and irresistibly festive Christmas ornaments? These 8 ready-to-use saw piercing templates are inspired by festive snowflakes and the shapes of your favorite gems! Just print them, stick them, and get saw piercing.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download our FREE Jewelry Design eBook: Finding Inspiration From Anywhere
Ready to train your creative muscles to glean inspiration from (literally) anywhere, and design more creative jewelry? Learn our favorite method to find inspiration, elevate your designs, and create one-of-a-kind pieces that stand out from the crowd.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Swipe This Mandala Saw Piercing Template Pack Now for FREE
Warning: this secret weapon will save you a ton of time and make creating unique, mandala-style pendants a helluva lot easier. Skip the drawing and design phase, and simply download our designs, print them out, and pick up your saw frame to get creating!
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download Our Pack of 27 Saddle Ring Templates Now for FREE
Ready to ditch the creative block, and get down to business creating your own beautiful, unique, and highly saleable saddle rings? These 27 design templates will get you creating stunning jewelry sooner! Plus, with 13 pages of step-by-step instructions on how to make your rings, you’ll be seriously set-up for success!
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download this Bali-Inspired Bangle Template Pack now for FREE
Swipe our printable Bali-inspired designs and add a touch of island paradise to your jewelry pieces! With 7 printable designs to choose from, you can skip the design phase, and simply print, trace, and get saw piercing.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download Our Simple, One-Stop Guide to Liver of Sulfur for FREE
Ready to learn how to give your metal jewelry a one-of-a-kind look with Liver of Sulfur? With so much competing information online about using Liver of Sulfur, this guide will strip things back and give you what you actually need to know. You’ll be ready to give this stinky substance a go in no time!
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Download the Saw Pierced Snowflake Template Pack now for FREE
Get inspired to create your very own modern snowflake ornaments you (and your customers) can obsess over all year round! Avoid the creative block of designing your own, and instead steal these handy printable templates to make your saw piercing a dream.
Just enter your details below and we’ll send it directly to your inbox.
Sign up Now for Your Free Access to our Metalsmith Academy Membership Portal
Just pop your name and email below, and we’ll send through your free login details straight to your inbox.
Sign-up for Our Newsletter and Get Jewelry-Making Goodness Landing in Your Inbox Every Week
You’ll never be short of inspiration again with this newsletter in your life. Just enter your email below, and we’ll send you through all the non-annoying tips, sales, blog posts, and other jewelry-making malarkey you can dream of. Say hello to your new favorite weekly read!
Master the Art of Polishing Sand Cast Rings
Learn how to clean up and polish your rings to a pro-level finish - even with all that pesky porosity. This 35-minute step-by-step video shows you exactly how it’s done.
Enter your details below and we’ll send a link to watch directly to your inbox.
Download the FREE Jewelry Texturing Guide
Get inspired with 40+ texture ideas, techniques, and design inspirations! Enjoy pages of real samples, close-up photos and finished jewelry pieces to get your creative juices flowing.
Just enter your details below and we'll send a link directly to your inbox.